African American Shaving Tips

What Every Black Man Should Know about Getting a Close Shave and Reducing Razor Bumps

Most men have suffered from ingrown hairs or razor bumps at one point or another, and a large percentage of men must deal with the condition on a regular basis. This is especially true for African-American men. Because black men have body hairs that are predominantly curly and wiry, shaved hair follicles tend to curve back and re-enter the skin as they grow, causing irritation and razor bumps. Ingrown hairs can also occur when hair doesn't fully emerge from the skin's surface and instead sits coiled underneath, leading to bumps and possible infection.

This recurring condition causes major discomfort in the beard and neck area and can affect black men for years at a time. The best course of action seems to be to give up shaving altogether — by not shaving the hair, it obviously doesn't have a chance to grow back improperly and cause razor bumps. But in a society that prizes clean-shaven appearances, this is not an option for most black men. Instead, follow these simple grooming tips to keep African-American skin smooth and refreshed and correctly treat ingrown hairs.

Always use a sharp razor blade and discard old blades after 4–5 uses. Dull blades force you to go over the same area of skin again and again, increasing the chances of irritation and improperly cutting hair. This goes for electric razors too — replace the blades after every few months of use.

Reduce your number of shaves by shaving every other day. Giving the skin time to heal will allow hairs to grow straight through the skin's surface, without forcing too-short hairs back into the skin. Frequent shaving too close to the skin will trap hairs inside the follicles.

Exfoliate. Exfoliating with a gentle scrub removes the top layer of dead cells and allows hairs to grow out more easily. It also helps soften skin, clears pores and evens out patchy skin tones.

Consider using a single-blade or DE razor. Multi-blade systems cut hair below the skin's surface, which increases the likelihood of hairs curling back in as they regrow. The closer the shave, the worse razor bumps tend to be.

Always shave in the direction of hair growth. While shaving upward seems to give a closer shave, shaving with the grain reduces irritation and the likelihood of hairs growing back into the skin. Don't pull skin taut when shaving, as this can also cause ingrown hairs to form.

Soften hairs before shaving by massaging warm water into the beard area, then applying a professional-grade, highly lubricating shave cream. Allow it to sit on the face for a minute or two to completely coat hairs before shaving.

Follow your shave with an after-shave solution that contains hydrating ingredients like aloe, witch hazel and tea tree extract to cut down on redness and discomfort. Avoid products that contain alcohol — these can dry skin out and provoke an ashy appearance.

Resist the urge to pluck ingrown hairs out. A new hair will just grow back the same way, and you'll face the same problem. Instead, use a sterile needle to gently lift the hair out from under the skin.

Take your time when shaving. Everyone's been guilty of the 30-second shave on a Monday morning, but shaving slowly and carefully can dramatically reduce nicks, cuts and abrasions that aggravate razor bumps.

See a professional for severe cases. If you are suffering from severe inflammation or persistent razor bumps, talk to your doctor or dermatologist. You may be a candidate for electrolysis (a low-level current used to destroy follicles) or skin depilatories (chemical creams that soften and minimize growth).